Stayed for Sunset This Time

Stayed for Sunset This Time

Friday, October 18, 2019 – Hana to Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii

Time goes by so fast. After spending two full days in Hana, it was time to traverse the Road to Hana in the other direction and enjoy the west side of Maui for a few days. But as usual, we made the most of the trip. We made a few quick stops at waterfalls and overlooks that we skipped on the way to Hana, and made a long stop a the Ke’Anae Peninsula. Ke’Anae is a pretty popular tourist spot. There is a park at the end of the peninsula, but rather than joining the throngs of rental cars full of fellow tourists heading out to the park, we pulled over at the first overlook and walked the rest of the way to stretch our legs. The views of rocks and waves and cliffs were stunning. There is an old, still functioning church and cemetery near the end of the peninsula, and along the way a place called Auntie Sandy’s Banana Bread. We bought a loaf of Auntie Sandy’s eponymous product while it was still warm. We ate over half of it right then and there and saved the rest for the next morning’s breakfast. There are a lot of banana bread vendors in Hawaii and I don’t claim to know which is best, but Auntie Sandy’s is fantastic.

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The best part of the Ken’Anae peninsula, however, was a secluded bench we found overlooking the rocks and waves. With all the rental cars and tour buses bustling down the road to the end of the peninsula, no one but us noticed this little clearing and its inviting bench. We sat, watched, and photographed for quite a while in this special spot.

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Relaxed and nourished with banana bread, we got back on the road and soon were at Paia, the town at the beginning of the Road to Hana. Auntie Sandy’s bread had worn off, so we pulled over to find lunch. We walked around the couple blocks which make up the central part of town and ended up at a place called Milagros. Chrissy had a blackened mahi sandwich and a Mermaid Water cocktail. I had a blackened mahi burrito and a Maui Brewing Big Swell IPA. We sat on the patio and watched the pedestrian and vehicle traffic go by while we ate. It was a fantastic meal. I wish lunch could last forever indeed. We all know it can’t, but it can be extended with ice cream! We walked up the street to a ice cream parlor and had sea salt peanut butter chocolate chip ice cream. It was every bit as good as it sounds.

From lunch it was on to Haleakela. Sea level to 10,000 feet in about 30 miles. On our previous very short trip to Maui we drove up to the summit. Between our short time on the island and our lack of preparedness for the cold temperatures at the top, we looked around quickly and left on that trip. On this trip we had time and were a bit better prepared.

Our first stop on the climb was the Halemau’u Trail, which leads to a crater overlook. It was cloudy when we started, which means we were walking in the cloud. But the weather changes often and fast on Haleakela so we pressed ahead anyway. When we arrived at the crater edge there was a group there. A couple who live in Hawaii, his mother, and the mother’s friend (who happened to be from Wisconsin). They had been there a little while with no break in the clouds. We chatted a while and they eventually decided to leave. They got about 100 yards up the trail and the cloud blew out. Fortunately, they looked back, saw what was happening, and returned. It was a beautiful view and a great moment to share. We chatted some more, took photos of each other, then Chrissy and I went back up the trail and left them to enjoy the view alone.

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When we got back to the trailhead parking area we were getting ready to get in the car when I heard a noise. Two Nene – Hawaiian geese – were walking right towards us. They were not spooked by us at all. While it allowed for some great photos, it unfortunately probably means they have been fed. They are very cool birds and are only found in Hawaii. We loved having a close encounter with them.

We continued on to the summit for sunset. I lived on the west coast of Florida for most of my life and have seen my fair share of beautiful sunsets over the Gulf of Mexico. But this was spectacular. There were clouds all around but we were above them. As the sun set through the clouds it looked like the sky was on fire. Then the colors – purple, orange, red, and green. An amazing sight, which almost made us forget how cold it was (50 degrees with a strong wind). Unlike our first trip, we were prepared, but it was still cold.

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After sunset we descended from Haleakala and drove to Kaanapali on the west side of the island. We checked into our condo and found a funky, eclectic place to eat right up the road. It was dark when we checked in so we couldn’t see much, but we were right on the ocean and ready to see it the next day.