The Ring of Beara

Friday, August 4, 2023 – Cobh to Kenmare

The day started with one of my favorite travel activities: a sunrise run in a new town. And if that run happens to be on the water? Even better. As I ran along Cobh’s waterfront, the town slowly woke up around me, and I couldn’t help but reflect on its history and appreciate the present as today’s Cobh residents got started on their day.

After breakfast bagel sandwiches at a local coffee shop, we made a stop at the Titanic Memorial Garden. Small but meaningful, the garden features a simple memorial engraved with the names of all the Titanic passengers who boarded at Queenstown, now known as Cobh. It was a quiet and moving moment before the day’s adventures.

As we left Cobh and traveled along the southern coast it was exceedingly lush and even felt tropical at times. The road looked like the Road to Hana on Maui in some places and there were a few palm trees on the waterfront. I knew that the Gulf Stream flows to Ireland and keeps it temperate, but I didn’t realize the southern coast was that warm. It was interesting and surprising to see.

Our next stop was Kinsale, a charming seaside town west of Cork. We wandered through an art gallery, a photo gallery, an old churchyard, and even a castle. Ice cream capped off our visit, making it a sweet success.

Shortly after leaving Kinsale, the real driving adventure began. Following our GPS to Glengarriff, we meandered through farm roads surrounded by cows, sheep, and a kaleidoscope of green hills. The patchwork fields, divided by hedgerows, made for a stunning backdrop. The Emerald Isle indeed.

West of Glengarriff are several dramatic peninsulas known for their rugged beauty. While the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula attract many tour groups, we opted for the quieter but more harrowing Ring of Beara. Tour buses don’t go there for good reason: the roads are narrow—sometimes barely one lane—but somehow still accommodate two-way traffic. Driving on the left? Fine. Shifting gears with my left hand? No problem. Squeezing past a local going full speed on a road meant for half a car? Let’s just say I now have a few more gray hairs.

Before starting the Ring of Beara, we stocked up on picnic essentials in Glengarriff: grapes, olives, crackers, and hummus. Lunch was enjoyed on a rock overlooking Bantry Bay, with cows grazing below, mist falling softly, and us thoroughly ignoring the rain.

The south side of the Ring offered breathtaking views at every turn. We stopped often for photos, taking in the craggy coastline and rolling hills. At the peninsula’s tip, we paused at the Dursey Island cable car which sways dramatically over the water. Though tempted to ride across and hike the island, the rain and the ticking clock won out. With half the peninsula still ahead, we pushed on.

The drive along the north side was just as stunning, and by the time we reached Kenmare, we were ready to call it a day. Rain kept us from exploring the town, so we opted for dinner at the hotel restaurant. Guinness flowed, lamb replaced my usual fish and chips, and the cozy atmosphere made for the perfect end to a long, scenic day. From sunrise runs to narrow roads and misty vistas, the Ring of Beara proved to be a thrilling and unforgettable adventure—gray hairs and all.