Once We Watched the Small Freebirds Fly

Monday, August 7, 2023 – Galway to Dublin

Our final day in Ireland began with a morning stroll through Galway. Despite the lingering bustle from race week, we managed to enjoy the city’s quieter side. We visited the Spanish Arch, the historic St. Nicholas Church, and the majestic Galway Cathedral, soaking in the charm before hitting the road for the last leg of our journey.

As we traveled through Ireland, I was struck by the sheer number of castle ruins dotting the landscape. Understanding more about Irish history and the history of invasions, attacks, land ownership, and protection, it makes sense that there are so many. Initially, each one felt like a treasure—a postcard-worthy glimpse into history. But after several days, they became common –  “oh look, another castle.” I imagine that’s how New Englanders react to palm trees in Florida: for a day or two each one is amazing, then they remain lovely but no longer surprising. However, for us Athenry Castle was a powerful exception.

We made a deliberate detour to Athenry, drawn by the hauntingly beautiful song “The Fields of Athenry.” The castle, unlike many ruins, has been carefully restored, and we were able to tour for just five euros. The restoration was excellent, and the tour brought its history vividly to life. Standing on the edge of the fields of Athenry, the mournful lyrics of the song played on repeat in my mind: “Low lie the fields of Athenry…” Irish songs often carry a deep sadness, but the pain of separation from loved ones and a loved land felt especially poignant as I stood in Athenry on the edge of the fields. It was a moment I won’t soon forget.

Our final stop was Athlone, a town near the middle of Ireland. We took a break to stretch our legs, indulge in some ice cream, and enjoy the festive atmosphere of a bank holiday celebration. Local music filled the air, adding a cheerful soundtrack to the day.

Finally, we made our way back to Dublin and checked into a hotel near the airport. We raised one last pint of Guinness over dinner, savoring our final taste of Ireland before preparing for an early morning flight back to the U.S. As we packed up, it was hard not to start dreaming about our next adventure—because even as one journey ends, another is always waiting to begin. Where are we going now?

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